Scotland probably wouldn’t mind being your best revenge

When I was in college, I had an ex-boyfriend who flew to Scotland as revenge for my breaking up with him. He took a girl he’d recently hooked up with, and the two of them maxed out a couple of MasterCards he had no intention of paying.

Honestly, I don’t remember expressing any desire to see Scotland, so I’m not sure how sabotaging his own credit and ending up with whatever burning pestilence he picked up from his new partner ranks in terms of all-time acts of “so there, neener neener,” but I do wonder if he still thinks of me every time he looks up his credit score.

Which I suppose is a weird way to introduce you to our recent trip to Scotland, but probably also explains why, when people ask, “why Scotland?” I feel like muttering “vengeance” in a Batman voice.

The good news is, we didn’t max out our credit, and I’m certain no one came back with anything but normal souvenirs.

It’s a weird time to travel internationally, given the entitled toddler and his clown car of a cabinet we’ve installed as leaders of the free world. It does add a little spice to the journey to be in an airplane over the Atlantic when the POTUS threatens World War Three. But we’d found cheap tickets to Inverness last fall, and a plan is a plan.

The real answer to “why Scotland” is soccer. Or football, as they call it across the way. About a year ago, Mike’s socials served up a WeFunder opportunity for a Scottish football team, and Mike, being, well Mike, was all “why would we do anything but opt into a share of a Scottish football team?”

Which is how he, along with about nine thousand others, became part owners of the Caledonian Braves, and how now, instead of watching Ryan Reynolds and that other guy who looks like a shorter version of him on Netflix, we’re getting up early on Saturday mornings to stream games live from the UK.

I’m not much into sports. But it’s become a soothing start to my weekends to wake to the brogue of Scottish football announcers on Saturday mornings, and if Mike’s going to have a new obsession, this is way more fun for me than the stock car racing thing he took up in our twenties.

At the time Mike booked the Inverness tickets, we knew we wouldn’t have much time for vacationing, so this trip was short enough that full 40% of it was travel, but we figured it was worth it. We arrived in the teensiest airport on a windy April afternoon and took a three-hour train ride through the Scottish Highlands to Stirling.

Our Stirling cab driver immediately commented on our accents, which touched off a hearty conversation about our absolute twat of a president and whether we as Americans should be worried about being targeted by some lunatic with a bone to pick over gas prices.

The driver promised not to share our hotel location with any such folk, which would have sounded way more threatening had it not been delivered with such a hearty laugh, and were we not on our 30th consecutive hour of no sleep. We dropped off our luggage and then set off to watch the Braves win a pickup match against a Stirling team.

Mike gave a little on-camera commentary about how wonderful it was to be among the half dozen or so people in the stands for the game and I think he did a great job, especially for someone who’d at that point been awake for a day and a half and maybe (or maybe not) had also received a low-key death threat from a cabbie.

The next day, after the best eight hours of unconsciousness that anyone’s ever had (at least on my part), we set off to climb the 200+ stairs at the William Wallace National Monument.

Next was Stirling Castle, and I’m sorry. I must have been in such a state of awe at seeing the childhood home of Mary Queen of Scots that I got exactly zero photos of the outside, but the inside was stunning, and I’ll include a photo looking down into the courtyard. You can see the Monument off in the distance.

From there, we took a train to Glasgow, which I was expecting to feel way more industrial than it did, probably because everyone told me to expect Glasgow to feel, well … industrial. I suppose Glasgow did its level best to give that impression, but it’s hard to do with all the cobblestones and medieval cathedrals and public art.

I loved all of Glasgow, but my favorite was the Necropolis, which sits ominously above the Glasgow Cathedral, overlooking the town like it’s daring you to turn your back on it. Even given the gorgeous morning of our visit, it was delightfully spooky.

There’s a statue in the middle of Glasgow of the Duke of Wellington on a horse. At some point, a couple of decades ago, a traffic cone showed up on the Duke’s head, which, considering his height, was probably kind of dangerous to place. City officials removed the cone, over and over again, but it reappeared every night.

Finally, in a win for hooligans (and traffic cones, probably), the city gave up and declared the cone official Duke attire, and now the Duke with his traffic cone hat is an unofficial symbol of Glasgow.

This story kind of feels like a metaphor for parenting and also makes me love Glasgow even more.

After three days in the city, our Braves winning another match, and a dinner with the other eighty or so team owners who’d assembled for the weekend, we took another train to Edinburgh.

If Glasgow is edgy and industrial, Edinburgh is hoity-toity, with shops full of tchotchkes and mobs of tourists. We toured the Edinburgh Castle and shopped the Royal Mile, then hopped on one of those on-and-off buses to take in more of the city than we could on foot.

A couple additional points of interest, that didn’t necessarily fit anywhere else in this post:

  • We had way better weather in Scotland than we had any right to expect, which is what happens when you spend good money on rain gear. I could have guaranteed torrential rain all week had I just taken one of our broke-ass Idaho umbrellas. You’re welcome, fellow tourists.
  • Everywhere we went, if Mike had the opportunity to engage anyone in any non-political conversation, he asked about their favorite football team and how they came about deciding it was their favorite. Every time, the answer was something along the lines of “it’s the team my Da loves,” or “it’s a family thing. There was never really any choice.”
  • Also, there’s a guy on the Braves team whose name is Connor McLaren, and when I hear the Scottish announcer say it, it sounds a lot like “Connor MacLeod” as in “Connor MacLeod of the Clan MacLeod,” and I want to yell “there can be only one!” but Mike tells me this is more dorky than profound, and he’s almost always right about such things. Please tell me if you think he’s wrong, so I can rub it in his face.
  • If you don’t get the reference, please brush up on your eighties movie trivia so we can remain friends.

More Porto, a little Braga and a Bishop maybe too big for his britches

If Porto is any indication, humans have been working on the proper stair height for more than 2,000 years, and only just recently agreed upon a standard.

I never appreciated that standard until now. In this ancient town, you’ll find differences in height between flights located in the same building, and even stairs in the same flight. Aaand, fun thing about bifocals, they make me a lot more clumsy with stairs. Introduce a mask into the equation (which can make said bifocals easy to slip off), I’m a walking disaster waiting to happen.

Most days we’re averaging 40 to 50 flights a day, and while I’m glad to have the stamina, I feel like I’m missing a lot because I’m concentrating so hard on not falling to my death. Good thing I’m traveling with some patient people….

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A post that’s a little like speed dating, but with more frogs

You guys, I just noticed the 10th anniversary* of this blog has quietly come and gone and I did nothing to make note of it. What started as a simple task to keep family from freaking out while we traveled, burgeoned into an up-to-thrice weekly effort to build an audience platform that might make me more attractive to publishers, and then waxed and waned according to how funny (or pissed off, embarrassed, caustic, or inspired) I was feeling week by week has really atrophied as of late. And I feel terrible about that.

Someone asked me recently “are you even writing anymore?” as if it’s something like a tree falling in the forest: not really there unless someone is able to respond to it in some way.

In short, writing? Yes! Pushing pithy material out on this poor blog? Not so much.

Buckle in, I’mma going to catch you all up:

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Teens in New Orleans: A family trip to the Big Easy

Midlife Sentence | Teens in New Orleans

First of all, don’t come at me about the title, you guys. I know teens does’t rhyme with the way you’re supposed to say New Orleans, but it’s cute and kitschy and SEO friendly, and y’all know I’m all about the market.

Secondly, you should know this trip just about didn’t happen, even though we’ve been planning it for months. We were going to run the Rock ‘n’ Roll Half Marathon as Mike’s official 50th half before age 50, and show our son, his girlfriend, and our exchange student one of our favorite cities in the world, which we’ve been unable to visit since before Hurricane Katrina.

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Seattle with Teenagers

Midlife Sentence | Seattle Space Needle

“I’m a weed detector,” Jack said as a distinctive acrid aroma filled the foyer. From the living room we heard the front door open and then close not one second later, followed by a chorus of giggles.

Apparently our Weed Detector had been successful in locating the enjoyer of said aromatic herb, standing in her own little fog on the front porch about five feet away from our entry.

I don’t know if most towns would appreciate a travel blog starting out with an anecdote about pot, but if you’re planning a trip to Seattle with adolescents, it’s probably helpful to come to grips from the outset with the fact that that Seattle is one of the most weed friendly towns in the US. If you happen to hail from a conservative state like ours, and you’re traveling with a small gaggle of teens, you can probably expect a little fascination with the topic, as well as someone pointing out the head shop on just about every single corner.

Midlife Sentence | SeattleIf nothing else, we established right off the bat this weekend that our sophisticated older kid is quite the bloodhound, able to suss out cannabis smoke within a radius of little more than arms length. Nothing gets by that guy.

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Exploring more of Denmark: Haderslev, Aarhus, Skagen, and a Viking Graveyard

Midlife Sentence | Denmark Skagen

We returned from Germany on Sunday and dropped Jack off at his host family home in Sønderborg (he’ll finish out the last week of his exchange and then travel home from Billund. Our tickets are outbound from Copenhagen), and continued on to see a couple of other points of interest in Denmark.

One of those was the town of Haderslev, not too far north of Sønderborg. Mike picked this place out because he thought it would be a quiet stopover on our way north, and also because at least one of my ancestors is from here: my grandmother Betty’s great grandfather Nis Jensen Krough, to be exact. Nis was born in 1849 in Haderslev, and died in 1908 in Des Moines, Iowa. He married Gertrude Marie Christiansen, also of Denmark (although her birth city is unknown to us).

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What to do with one day in Germany, or zwei or drei

Midlife Sentence | Lüneburg Am Sande

It has happened before: regardless of what Einstein said about the definition of insanity, we’ve done the exact same thing we’ve always done and had something totally unexpected happen. Take this trip, for example. We’ve had such good luck finding lodging with minimal knowledge about where we were going or extra wads of cash to spend. Even when we were in Copenhagen, and I’d made our airbnb reservations after reading exactly one article on how cool the Nørrebro neighborhood is, we ended up getting a hip, little flat in what turned out to be the neighborhood about which everyone we’ve talked to since has made that sucking-air-through-your-teeth-sound at, even then we had good luck.

That luck-with-the-lodging thing kind of went pfhht in Hamburg.

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Our Denmark Adventure: How Somebody Totally Undersold Sønderborg, and I’m Going to Need a Pastry Intervention

Midlife Sentence | Sonderborg

Our oldest son is a young man of many talents, but I must say, he’s got a ways to go if he wants a future in the travel industry. When we’ve talked about the town he’s called home this past year, he totally undersold it. The impression he left us with was: safe, small, and rainy. There’s a rocky beach and a harbor, a decent mall, and a great kebab shop within walking distance.

We weren’t really prepared to be blown away by Sønderborg, a seaside town of around 30,000 that straddles the narrow straight of Alsslund in southern Denmark.

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Pori, Huikee and the Sea

Midlife Sentence | Pori

It’s obvious how much thought Joona and Saara and others have put into planning our stay in Finland. On our first full day, Saara had to work for part of the day, so Joona took us on a short walking trip around Pori and to visit a natural history exhibit in the town museum. That evening Joona’s parents, Matti and Pirkko, fixed another meal for us in their home in town.

Pori is a town of about 85,000, with a university, and lumber and manufacturing as major industries. Established in the 1550s, it has burned down and been rebuilt nine times until someone got the great idea to install wide esplanades as firebreaks.

Midlife Sentence | Pori
Photo by Mike Markley

Next week, it will host its annual Pori Jazz Festival, and organizers were setting up tents and platforms in the streets while we were exploring in the drizzly weather. I don’t know a lot of the artists on the bill, but Chaka Kahn and Grace Jones were two I recognized.

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Sauna Time in Finland

Midlife Sentence | Finnish Lake, Sauna Time

In Finnish there are, apparently, a number of different words for “mosquito,” and one that in certain dialects, also means “cow.” I don’t know what that says about Finns, the complexity of their language, the mosquitos around here, or cows for that matter. I haven’t seen any cows, but the mosquitos are prolific.

For the most part, they’re also thankfully disinterested in our party. I think if one of those words is for “polite mosquito,” that’s the kind we appear to be dealing with this week.

We arrived in Pori yesterday via Onnibus, a low cost transit service that features double decker buses, with free wifi and chargers. For about 30 Euros per round-trip ticket, plus a small charge for seat reservations, I was able to secure the front row on the top deck for our party. It’s about the most fun and lowest cost way to travel the three and a half hours from Helsinki to Pori I could imagine. The scenery was fantastic, and the chance to sit and watch the landscape go by gave us a nice respite from the crowds and cobblestones of Helsinki (although that is one of our favorite cities).

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